Assisi basilica sits on former 'Hill of Hell'

Editor's note: Seventh in a series on the sacred places and tombs of saints included in The Compass pilgrimage to Rome and Paris that retired Green Bay Bishop Robert Banks will lead May 3-13. The second day of touring in Italy will include a trip to Assisi, to visit four important sites. This week, we focus on the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. (More information on pilgrimage)

By Tony Staley

	St. Francis of Assisi Basilica What: Mother church of the Franciscans and burial site of St. Francis When: Built in the 13th century shortly after Francis' death Where: Assisi, Italy

Assisi, about 90 miles north of Rome in the rolling hills of Umbria, is both a medieval town (upper part) and a modern city. This basilica is both the mother church of the Franciscan Order and the burial site of Francis.

In the early 13th century, Francis turned his back on his father's wealth and started an order of brothers (some of whom were also priests, though Francis himself was not), who depended on begging to live. Later, Francis was asked to begin related orders for women and laity.

The church sits on what was known as the "Hill of Hell," because criminals were put to death there. It is now called the "Hill of Paradise." The land, donated by Simone di Pucciarello, is on the west side of Assisi.

Work on the basilica and the Franciscan monastery began immediately after Francis was canonized. Pope Gregory IX (1227-1241) laid the foundation stone on July 17, 1228, although work may have started before that.

The basilica contains an upper and a lower church. Although both churches have the same footprint, the lower one - where the body of Francis is buried - has a heavy, crypt-like feel, while the upper church is airy and light.

Brother Elia Bombardone, one of Francis' first followers and the former provincial minister of Syria, designed and supervised the work on the lower church, which was finished in 1230.

Work on the upper church began after 1239 and was finished in 1253. Pope Innocent IV (1243-1254) consecrated both churches in 1253.

The body of Francis was brought in solemn procession to the lower church from its temporary burial place in St. George Church (now the Basilica of St. Clare) on Pentecost, May 25, 1230.

The burial place of Francis remained a secret until 1818, because Brother Elia, who had succeeded Francis as head of the order, wanted to prevent relics of Francis from spreading all over medieval Europe. (Relic stealing was not uncommon in those days.)

After the burial place was found in December of 1818, Pasquale Belli designed a neo-classical marble crypt in 1822 for Francis' relics. Ugo Tarchi re-worked it in neo-Romanesque style from 1925 to 1932.

The remains of Francis' most faithful friars, Brothers Rufino, Angelo, Masseo and Leone were entombed in the corners of the wall around the altar and Francis' crypt.

An urn at the entrance to the crypt holds the remains of Jacopa dei Settesoli, a noble Roman woman and Francis' most faithful friend and benefactress. She was at his side when Francis died.

Pope Nicholas IV (1285-1287), the former Minister-General of the Franciscans, made the basilica a papal church.

Frescoes by Cimabue and Giotto and other renowned late-medieval artists in both the lower and upper churches depict the lives of Christ, Francis and other saints.

Assisi was struck by an earthquake on Sept. 26, 1997 - the 816th anniversary of Francis' birth - that claimed four lives and badly damaged the basilica, collapsing part of the vault, which contained frescoes by Cimabue. The basilica was closed for two years for restoration. Some have since been reconstructed.

Pope John Paul II gathered world religious leaders at the basilica in 1986 and 2002 to pray for peace.

(Staley is a retired editor of The Compass.)

Next: Basilica of St. Clare of Assisi, Assisi